On the Side by Ed Smith

Author:Ed Smith
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781408873168
Publisher: Bloomsbury
Published: 2017-03-14T04:00:00+00:00

Serves 4–6

50g tinned anchovy fillets in oil, roughly chopped and oil reserved

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

120g crème fraîche

1kg floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, Russet or Yukon Gold

150ml milk, warmed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the anchoïade, mash the anchovies, garlic and a pinch of salt to a smooth paste in a pestle and mortar. Add the oil from the anchovy tin a drip or two at a time, stirring with the pestle until it emulsifies. Gradually add the vinegar, still stirring, then season with a couple of grinds of black pepper. Scoop the crème fraîche into a bowl and fold the anchovy paste into it. Set aside until needed.

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Peel the potatoes and dice them into 5–7cm chunks. Put them in a large pan of salted cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, or until you can crush a potato easily with the back of a fork. Drain and leave them to steam for 2 minutes (to mash them immediately would lead to gloop).

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Mash or rice the potatoes thoroughly. Mix the warm milk in, one third at a time, using a wooden spoon to beat the potatoes to a smooth purée. Add the anchoïade, a good pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. Use that wooden spoon and a bit of elbow grease one more time, then serve.

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ALONGSIDE: Deep-fried Brussels sprouts; Grilled tenderstem broccoli with umami crumbs; Agretti with olive oil; Puttanesca runner beans; PX radicchio Treviso

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